Corpus Christi Caller Times Restaurant Review Palapa

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Friday, September 24, 1999

Palapa
New restaurant in Rockport offers ritzy dishes in casual setting

Boiled lobster, rack of lamb and beef medallions with crab and shrimp buttercream sauce are just some of the high-class dishes offered in one of Rockport's newest eateries.
   Despite its ritzy menu that also includes filet mignon and oysters Rockefeller, Palapa delivers its food in casual surroundings that overlook the water at Key Allegro. The wait staff dons Hawaiian shirts and khaki shorts or pants, and patrons can be seen in everything from cut-offs and sandals to name-brand sundresses and matching bags.
   The atmosphere is definitely coastal, with a rich, turquoise mural of dolphins and other sea life greeting customers at the door. Floor-to-ceiling windows line the back of the restaurant, with cool ceiling fans hanging from the A-frame roof.
   A chandelier made of thousands of shells hangs over the inside bar, while drinks and food also are served on an outside deck shaded with palm fronds to give the restaurant the feel of a real palapa.
   Inside, the tables are covered with crisp white linens with napkins tucked artfully into the blue-rimmed, Mexican glasses.
   We started our meal with the stuffed jalapenos, which the menu described as peppers filled with three cheeses and dipped in tequila batter. Unlike the frozen variety found in many restaurants, these slightly crisp peppers were obviously fresh. The batter was light and crispy, with the creamy cheeses spilling out with every cut of the fork.
   The salads that came with the entrees were lovely, with shredded carrots topping a mixture of greens, tomatoes and cucumbers. Try the fat free cilantro-lime-vinegarette dressing; it's a slightly sweet and delicious change from the usual salad toppings.
   The entrees include a number of fresh catches grilled, sauteed or blackened, with the option to add sauces on top - crawfish etoufee, crab and shrimp buttercream or crab and pecan relish.
   Wanting something spicy, I opted for the blackened snapper and ate every fiery bit. The salty-peppery spices were strong but complemented the mild, tender and juicy fish. The roasted potatoes on the side were good, as were the halves of cheese-covered yellow squash.
   My companion raved about the crab cakes; three fried, yet soft, servings of seasoned Lump crab with a bit of onion thrown in.
   We finished with the chef's special recipe - a flour-less chocolate cake that was rich enough with chocolate, butter and cream for the two of us to share. Next time, we'll try the island bananas, a creation of bananas sauteed in a rum sauce and served over cinnamon ice cream.
   Only a few glitches at this 3-month-old restaurant distracted from an otherwise delightful evening. An employee cleaned a glass door next to our table, kicking up bits of dust around us. A while later, another used an overwhelmingly pungent cleaner to polish brass fixtures in the bar area. Such cleanliness in a restaurant is imperative, but should be done before the doors open for business.
   Our waitress, too, was a bit slow to take our orders but offered pleasant enough service. All in all, we enjoyed this new restaurant, particularly the carefully prepared food.
   Palapa Restaurant, (361) 729-2636
   39 Mazatlan at the Key Allegro Marina, Rockport
   Entrees: $6.47-$28.87
   Checks: Yes
   Credit cards: All major, except American Express
   Full bar
   Hours: Sunday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-9:30 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m.
   Food: ***
   Atmosphere: ** and a half
   Service: **

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