Restaurant Review

Friday, August 25, 2000

Venetian Hot Plate serves fare to remember

Careful cooking with fragile ingredients helps turn out a seductive palate of entrees

 

They're fresh out of gondolas, but the Venetian Hot Plate's scrumptious Italian fare will take your taste buds on a joyride to remember.
   Tucked back on the corner of Station and Beach streets in Port Aransas, the Venetian Hot Plate's boxy exterior opens into what could be the intimate dining room of an Italian villa. The "Hot Plate" in the eatery's name refers to cast-iron plates heated to 400 degrees that maintain peak temperature and flavor of several menu items.
   We recently went for an early dinner and were among the evening's first guests. As the room steadily filled, however, the staff managed to retain the serene setting. The Venetian Hot Plate has not forgotten the appeal of European service - attentive, but not overbearing.
   Our friendly waiter, Josh, welcomed us by reciting an enticing list of specials that was also posted on the blackboard as we entered.
   While we mulled over our choices, we each started with a glass of wine. The second Josh overheard us debating which house wine to choose, he offered to bring us samples. After a few sips, we knew we would like the trebbiano, an Italian white wine that's not too sweet and not too dry. The samples saved us from ordering a carafe of wine we wouldn't enjoy, and we were grateful for this extra attention.
   The Venetian Hot Plate's wine list, by the way, is as long or longer than the entire menu.
   Tender perfection
   Once we were settled in with glasses of wine, we shared two appetizers. A fat sphere of portobella mushroom, grilled and topped with a hearty mix of Italian sausage, roasted bell peppers and Parmesan cheese came first. It was our initial clue that everything here would be cooked to tender perfection; foods that turn to rubber in the wrong hands melted in our mouths here.
   We also devoured a hot plate piled with fresh seafood, including mussels, clams, shrimp and scallops, sautéed in white wine, fresh garlic, crushed red pepper flakes and herbs. Again, everything was tender and flavorful. One note: Many of the menu items are cooked with red pepper flakes. In our experience, the flakes gave the meals a pleasant zip but were never overpowering.
   Next came the dinner salads. I ordered a traditional bed of Romaine lettuce dressed with pleasantly tangy, six-year-old balsamic vinegar. My companion enjoyed a Caesar salad large enough for two to share and obviously created with fresh ingredients.
   Tempting lasagna
   The entrée selection nearly overwhelmed us. We drooled over the many seafood and pasta combinations on the menu as well as meat and pasta choices. In the end, we couldn't resist ordering from the night's specials. We were, however, sorely tempted by the "Lasagna della Mamma," mom's lasagna, available only on Saturdays. Two diners at a nearby table shooed away an offer of menus. "We don't need them. We're having the lasagna," they said.
   While our taste test of mom's lasagna will have to wait for another visit, we were awed when our choices came to the table. Each meal was a work of art, beautifully presented on oversized platters with different patterns.
   My grilled amberjack was sprinkled with black olives, artichoke hearts and diced tomatoes. Josh touted it as a heart-healthy entrée, made without cream or wine.
   My companion ordered the filet mignon medallions covered with a creamy gorgonzola sauce and served with a side of garlic spinach. Here comes that word again: tender. If you want a filet you don't have to work to enjoy, this is the place.
   Any rational diner would cry for mercy after all we had eaten, but how could we resist the desserts Josh described to us?
   While the dense, double chocolate cake was delectable, our favorite was the white chocolate cheesecake with raspberry topping.
   There were a few empty tables when we left, but the wise diner will make reservations on the weekend.
   Offering fresh cuisine and delightful service, the Venetian Hot Plate serves up the best of Italy, gondolas or not.
  
   Venetian Hot Plate
   232 Beach Street, Port Aransas
   (361) 749-7617
   Hours: 5-10 p.m. Sunday, Tuesday through Thursday, 5-10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, closed Monday
   Entrees: $9.95-$14.95
   Checks: local checks with I.D.
   Credit cards: all major
   Beer and wine
   Wheelchair accessible through private entrance
   Food: three stars
   Service: three stars
   Atmosphere: two stars
  

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