Caller-Times Interactive: RESTAURANT REVIEW
Friday, April 11, 1997

Che Bello pleases the eye and the palate

Downtown cafe has sandwiches and soups, but ice cream and gelato are even more of a draw

Food and art merge at this elegant marble-floored cafe, resulting in a dining experience that pleases the eye as well as the palate.

Tucked into the downtown area known as Water Street Market, Che Bello offers the ambiance of an European cafe and an assortment of sandwiches, soups and sweets.

However, it is the artistically arranged display of gelato -- the Italian version of ice cream -- and brilliantly hued sorbets which catch your eye first. These delectable frozen confections are homemade, and displayed in narrow metal bins, with their surfaces meticulously scalloped.

Flavors include the standard chocolate and vanilla, plus some more creative and luscious varieties such as pistachio, tiramisu, cinnamon and raspberry.

We recently stopped in for a late lunch and coffee. Our companion opted for the vegetarian sandwich, a longstanding favorite, which includes slices of avocado, cucumber, tomato, cream cheese and chopped green onions garnished with bean sprouts, served on a wonderfully soft, flaky croissant.

We chose the chicken salad sandwich, which was smooth, creamy and garnished with flecks of green onion and almond slices.

Both sandwiches were served with pickle spears and potato chips, although the staff will substitute sliced carrots for health-conscious diners.

We also tried a cup of tomato Florentine soup, consisting of a rich tomato broth, thick pasta seashells and a generous portion of fresh spinach.

Dessert offers much more difficult choices -- ice cream or pastries? Chocolate muffin or cream-filled horns? Oatmeal raisin cookies or Heath bar cookies?

After a few moments of dietary indecision, we opted for a buttery, flaky raspberry strudel that was sweet and satisfying. A companion's chocolate-filled pastry was sinfully dark and rich.

Top your meal off with one of Che Bello's rich brews, sure to delight serious java lovers. You can have the espresso, which is strong and dark, or a frothy capucino. Our companion tried a thick latte shake, made with vanilla ice cream mixed with coffee.

The red-brick walls are adorned with local artwork that is also for sale. High ceilings and the cafe-style metal chairs and tables lend an elegant appearance. There is also seating outdoors near the water fountain for those who want to dine alfresco.

Service is adequate -- the counter people aren't noted for their friendliness nor for their speed.

Nonetheless, this coffee shop-ice cream parlor-sandwich eatery is a must for anyone who loves good ice cream and coffee.

Caller-Times restaurant reviews are written by a team of free-lance writers. The Caller-Times pays for meals. From time to time the writers revisit previously reviewed restaurants to update the information.

At a glance

Che Bello
320-C Williams St.
882-8832.

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