Corpus Christi Caller Times Restaurant Review Johnny Carino's features cozy atmosphere

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Friday, January 7, 2000

Johnny Carino's features cozy atmosphere
New chain Italian restaurant makes a 'wonderful dining experience'

I'm a bit of a snob when it comes to franchise restaurants. But after dining at one of the newest of these establishments in town, Johnny Carino's Italian Kitchen, I've changed my view.
   Located in the South Coast Plaza at 1652 S. Padre Island Drive near Greenwood, this chain offers their version of country Italian dishes inspired by recipes from Southern Italy.
   The large, brand-new building with its beautiful stone facade gives the illusion of a two-story villa or winery. Upon entry, you discover a casual, cozy atmosphere with small intimate dining rooms.
   Window-level stone arches with heavy drapes drawn to the side separate the dining areas. Private booths or solid wooden tables - some with checkered tablecloths and beautiful mismatched wooden chairs - are available.
   Exposed wooden beams in the high ceiling, simple decor like plants and platters, subdued lighting and the sounds of Frank Sinatra add to the warm ambiance. An open kitchen enables the chefs to exhibit their cooking skills. Every so often there is a huge, but controlled flash of flames that flare up from the grill.
   The tri-fold menu is quite expansive, with seven appetizers, five salads, six types of pizzas and two pages of entrees. Selections are either "solo" portions - or for a little less than double the price - "grandioso family platters." Carino's also has an extensive wine list and a full bar offering specialty drinks like Italian Margaritas with Amaretto.
   Fresh baked bread comes with the meal, and you can add soup or salad for 99 cents more. We added the Caesar salad, which was nicely chilled.
   We started off with Italian nachos as an appetizer: a large platter of fried pasta chips layered with sausage, chicken, pepperocini peppers, black olives, diced roma tomatoes and jalapenos, topped with mozzarella, parmesan and alfredo sauce. It was outrageously delectable.
   My companion and I selected circled specialties - each with a pepper in the margin that denotes "spicy."
   I had the spicy shrimp and chicken: a penne pasta tossed in a spicy cream sauce with cayenne pepper, shrimp, chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, green onions and mushrooms. The light cream sauce was mildly flavored with delightfully sweet tomatoes, but I never did detect a hint of cayenne.
   My guest had the Skilletini, which was served in a sizzling skillet with chicken and sausage, peppers, onions and spaghetti in a spicy marinara sauce. The seasoned Italian sausage enhanced the recipe with a spicy, smoky flavor.
   Absent from the printed menu are desserts - the waiters bring samples to your table on a tray. We shared a piece of tiramisu: ladyfingers soaked in rum and espresso with whipped cream. Yummy as it was, I couldn't discern the taste of liquor and thought it needed less cream and more cake.
   All in all, we had a wonderful dining experience - and when I looked around the room at the other patrons, all I saw were smiling faces.
   Johnny Carino's Country Italian
   1652 S. Padre Island Drive, 854-7373
   Entrees: $5.25 - $11.79
   Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m -10 p.m.; Friday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
   Checks: yes
   Credit cards: all major
   Full bar
   Food: ***
   Service: ***
   Atmosphere: ***

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