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Friday, June 16, 2000

Black-eyed Pea

Chain restaurant serves homestyle cooking

At a glance 4801 S. Padre Island Drive Phone: 993-4588 Entrees: $5.19-$13.49 Credit cards: All major Personal checks: yes Spirits: Full bar Wheelchair access: yes Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday Food: 1 ½ stars Service: 2 ½ stars Atmosphere: 2 stars

   As one of the original chain restaurants along South Padre Island Drive, Black-eyed Pea continues to draw diners with its homestyle cooking.
   After opening in 1991, this eatery has undergone a few interior changes and is now run by the same folks who own Denny's. The interior color scheme is forest green and bright yellow with a rich red brick floor. Diners sit at booths and tables with partitions separating the dining areas.
   Always quick to arrive at your table is a basket of hot rolls, sweet cornbread and a dollop of soft butter. That's usually enough of an appetizer for anyone but if you need something more to get you started, try the hot spinach and artichoke dip. This creamy concoction of artichoke hearts, spinach and cheese is served with warm tortilla chips that are great for dipping.
   The menu offers a bit of everything from generous Caesar salads to a delicious Southwest chicken casserole. There are also baked potatoes stuffed to please, with ingredients such as cheese and broccoli, meat loaf and pot roast.
   Steaks, fish, chicken and sandwiches add to the variety, but we usually opt for something under the "Market Classics" section of the menu. The slow-roasted pot roast was topped with a smooth, old-fashioned brown gravy, and the meat was especially tender. A large chunk of fat detracted from the otherwise appealing entree.
   A companion's chicken-fried steak also was a bit disappointing, with the meat unusually tough. The fried okra tasted and looked as if it has been frozen and unfortunately, they were out of one of our favorite side dishes -- green beans. Thumbs up, though, for the mashed potatoes, which did remind us of home-cooking.
   Another highlight of the meal was the banana pudding for dessert. This classic was prepared well, from the crunchy vanilla wafers to the creamy pudding rich with banana slices.
   In the past, we've also enjoyed this restaurant's veggie plate, which allows diners to select five or six vegetables from more than a dozen options. You might also want to try the daily specials, which include chicken pot pie, smothered steak and chicken and dumplings.
   The service at Black-eyed Pea has always been consistently good, with waiters dressed in crisp white shirts and ties attending to us promptly.
  
  

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