Corpus Christi Caller Times Restaurant Review Meat a deli that's a cut above the ordinary

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Friday, May 12, 2000

Meat a deli that's a cut above the ordinary
Bernard's serves premium-quality cold cuts, luscious soups in shady outdoor cafe

At a glance
319 Lawrence Street
Phone: 883-5700
Entrees: $4.95-$6.25
Credit cards: All major
Wheelchair access: Yes
Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday
Food: 2 ½ stars
Service: 2 ½ stars
Atmosphere: 2 ½ stars

A campy beach motif interior gives way to a European sidewalk café at Bernard's, a cozy Lawrence Street delicatessen that fills up around noon with suits and couples on their lunch break.
   The paper maché parrot in the window, the lime green palm tree wallpaper and the folding beach chair and umbrella perched atop the shelving are the first items one notices when walking into this off-Chaparral Street eatery flanked on one side by the funky Forever Art Tattoo parlor and the other by the Dragon Lounge.
   The slightly cramped dining area and the limited number of tables also catches the eye.
   But the real fun to be had at Bernard's is sitting outside the café at one of the shaded tables along the sidewalk where diners can people watch and enjoy the coastal weather.
   On a recent visit to Bernard's, my dining companion and I placed our orders inside at the glass counter, which displayed cookies, a sinful looking rocky road pie, pasta salad and tossed green salads. Our friendly server, who was quick to suggest the baked potato soup, steered us toward a clean table outside.
   Within minutes, our appetizers - a steaming creamy cup of the baked potato soup loaded with a mound of chopped fresh chives, sharp cheddar cheese and crumbled bacon and a salad of spring greens tossed with a balsamic vinaigrette - were at our table.
   Bernard's signature baked potato soup lived up to our host's recommendation. Large chunks of tender potatoes floated throughout the light, creamy broth, which was spiced with fresh cracked pepper, adding a subtle bite to the already fragrant stew.
   The salad of mixed greens tossed with chopped tomatoes and crumbled bacon was far less impressive - the balsamic vinaigrette tasted as if it had come from a bottle. But, nevertheless, it served its purpose of clearing the palette for the overstuffed sandwiches that were placed before us as we finished the last drop of soup.
   While many delicatessens about town offer up standard cold cuts, Bernard's serves pricier meats from Boar's Head Provision Co., headquartered in Brooklyn, N.Y.
   I decided to go with something simple - a turkey sandwich. But the sandwich was anything but simple. It was served on one of the large wheat rolls that Bernard's bakes on site. The bread flaked slightly, but still remained chewy with each bite.
   Veering slightly from the menu, I ordered the sandwich with spicy mustard, lettuce, tomato, purple onions and a horseradish sauce, also made by Boar's Head.
   With each bite, the brief yet intense kick of the horseradish sauce, the likes of which in larger doses could clear the sinuses, made the sandwich. The sauce would equally compliment roast beef.
   My companion opted for one of Bernard's self-proclaimed specialties, the Reuben, which was stuffed with lean succulent corned beef and tangy sauerkraut, intermingled with melted Swiss cheese and Russian dressing grilled to perfection between two slices of dark rye bread.
   The bread surprisingly remained crisp on the outside despite the juicy corned beef, which burst with each bite.
   Even though we hadn't much room left, we couldn't resist finishing our lunch with a slice of homemade Rocky Road pie, a chocolate lover's dream. The pie's moist chocolate brownie base was filled with walnuts and topped with a gooey layer of chocolate fudge and a melted layer of marshmallow. The gastronomic masterpiece was capped off with a thin layer of chocolate icing.
   Although the high quality meats and the freshness of the ingredients can make Bernard's a little costly (most of the sandwiches run about $6), the price is well worth the delights that will keep us coming back for the food and the people watching.

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