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Friday, June 16, 2000

Wild weekend

B Bar B serves game dinners in a remote country setting

At a glance Kleberg County Road 2215, less than a mile off Highway 77, eight miles south of Kingsville Phone: (512) 296-3331 Food: * ½ Atmosphere: ** Service: * ½ House: Friday and Saturday, 6-9 p.m. Reservations only. Any day, party of 12 or more Checks: Local and area checks Credit cards: All major Entrees: $25 per person Food: 3 stars Service: 2 stars Atmosphere: 3 stars

  Take a walk on the wild side - the culinary wild side, that is - at this family-owned bed and breakfast inn. Owners Luther and Patti Young have been hosting visitors and hunters at their spread for the past five years, and began offering a weekend wild game dinner that includes appetizer, salad, entree, side dishes and dessert - all in a remote and beautiful setting.
   To get here, take Highway 77 past Kingsville, and continue on about eight miles. Take a left at County Road 2215 - there's a sign for the B Bar B, but you need to be alert for it. Then follow the shell road and the signs to the ranch.
   The inn and restaurant are in a ranch house that is reminiscent of a huntinglodge, with its stone floors, mounted trophy heads and luxurious yet relaxed furnishings. We entered a dining room where the tables were topped with fresh white cloths, and a waiter came immediately to bring us a wine list.
   With our drinks came an appetizer of a light, creamy fish pate and crackers. There is no written menu, as the selections change each weekend, so the waiter recited the day's specials. We chose the combination dinner - filet mignon and grilled quail.
   The salads came first, pleasant but rather ordinary, topped with a creamy garlic dressing. Then came the entrees - our steaks, wrapped in bacon and grilled to perfection, were thick and tender. The quail were meaty and delicious, with a mesquite-smoked flavor that seemed a perfect complement for the meat.
   Side dishes included rice pilaf, sauteed carrots and a broiled tomato, topped with mozzarella cheese and Italian herbs. There were also homemade dinner rolls, soft and warm from the oven.
   For dessert, we had the choice of strawberry cheesecake or strawberry crepes - we opted for the crepes and they were very good, served with steaming cups of coffee.
   Service was good, but the pace was appropriately relaxed - well suited to a restful getaway. At some of the other tables were hunters, just back from their day in the field and still dressed in camouflage clothes. The B Bar B not only provides bed-and-breakfast service, but it also offers guided hunts for quail, dove, turkey, and nilgai.
   As we left the inn, we noted the array of glistening stars visible in the clear night sky - further proof that we were far away from the big-city lights of Corpus Christi. Tucked away in the South Texas wilderness, the B Bar B is a treasure that's worth taking the time to discover.
  
  

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