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Friday, January 17, 1997

Ancient Mariner sails a well-charted course

Seafood restaurant features variety of broiled, fried dishes

At a glance 4336 S. Alameda Phone: 992-7371 Entrees: $6.95 - $10.95 Credit cards: All major, also checks Wheelchair access: Yes Spirits: Full bar Hours: 11 am to 9 pm Mon.-Thur. 11 am to 10 pm Fri. and Sat. Food: 2 stars Service: 2 stars Special service: Catering available Atmosphere: 1 ½ stars

   His portrait is hanging next to the doorway - the wizened old ancient mariner. With graying beard, navy pea-coat and cap, he could easily pass for Santiago in "The Old Man and the Sea."
   People turn to that classic novel for its timelessness. Similarly, the Ancient Mariner restaurant has kept patrons coming back for its well-known, time-tried favorites through the years. The menu offers several catch-of-the-day fish selections either broiled or fried in addition to a variety of shrimp, crab, fish and beef dishes.
   On a recent visit we sampled a few of the treasures from the sea. The quality of our meals was a little uneven but overall acceptable and solidly presented.
   We started out with stuffed jalapenos as an appetizer. These are one of our favorite starters to try at different restaurants. Although these were full and round in shape, the kitchen only used half a jalapeno in each - a boon for those who like limited spiciness. The stuffing was crab meat and bread with pimentos. Cocktail sauce came on the side instead of the typical ranch dressing. The unexpected red sauce added a little bit of zing.
   Meals include two choices of vegetables, among them a refreshingly simple iceberg lettuce, tomato and red onion salad.
   The broiled red snapper was tender and tasty with peppery spices on top. It was broiled with just enough butter to add flavor but not enough to overpower the fish.
   The stuffed potato was twice-baked. The second time, it was stuffed with green onions, chunks of bacon and butter then topped with cheddar cheese. Quite a tasty balance of flavors but not one for the calorie-conscious.
   The somewhat heavy stuffed shrimp were a disappointment. The delicate shrimp flavor could not compete with taste of the ample filling and the fried coating. However, friends have told me that they have been pleased with the fried fish selections in the past.Cornbread was served with the meals and provided a tasty surprise. Chunks of corn were nestled in the springy bread.To wash our meal down, we chose a carafe of the house white wine. The wine was a little sweet and quite reasonable at $7.95.The service was reliable and our food arrived promptly. On the week night we stopped by, there were quite a few regulars whom wait staff seemed to know. It was a good indication of the continuing popularity of classic fried and broiled seafood dishes.
  
  

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