Keep it Green, by Michael Womack
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Saturday, September 22, 2001

Rain brings pesky fire ants

George Tuley/Caller-Times

A disturbed mound of Imported Fire Ants scurry about near the Botanical Gardens. As many know from first-hand experience, fire ants are aggressive and will defensively attack anything that disturbs them.

With our recent moisture, grass is not the only thing growing in our yards and vegetable gardens. Unfortunately, fire ant mounds are also springing up. Texas Imported Fire Ants are a serious problem in much of Texas and the southern states.
   If you have been planting your garden or working on your lawn, you have probably encountered these pesky creatures which make gardening even more painful than sore muscles. Because few products are approved for use against fire ants in vegetable gardens, learning about the biology of fire ants and treatment options will make gardening \ more enjoyable and hopefully less painful.
   Moist conditions
   Fire ant colonies are usually found outdoors and thrive in
   gardens because they have ample amounts of moisture, rich organic soil and a wide variety of foods available to them. Worker ants forage for food and love to eat greasy or oily materials. In gardens, this includes oil-containing seeds, seed pods and some insects.
   Options for treating and preventing fire ants in vegetable gardens are few and include everything from using very hot or boiling water drenches to "organic" methods to conventional treatments.
   Pouring two to three gallons of very hot water on a mound will kill fire ant mounds about 60 percent of the time. Gardeners should take care not to "cook" valuable garden plants in the process.
   Organic products containing pyrethrins plus diatomaceous earth or carbaryl (Sevin) are registered for use against fire ants in vegetable gardens. Whatever insecticide product you select for use, the site should be specified on the product label.
   Most bait-formulated insecticides are not approved for use in vegetable gardens but can be applied around the perimeter of the garden and the yard. Foraging ants inside and outside the garden gather the bait and carry it back to their colonies. To prevent ants from entering the garden, a contact insecticide can be applied around the garden as a barrier; treat individual mounds near the garden as needed.
   Use fast-acting bait
   Fire ants also invade compost piles and mulched flower beds seeking moisture and warmth. Colonies in these sites may be difficult to locate precisely, but the area of greatest ant activity can be treated with a fast-acting bait product that contains hydramethylon.
   As most of us know from first-hand experience, fire ants are aggressive and will defensively attack anything that disturbs them. Unlike a bee or a wasp, a fire ant can sting repeatedly with no ill effects to itself.
   If you do get stung, it is important to treat the bite and prevent infection. The symptoms include burning, itching and a white pustule that forms in a day or two. Stings are not usually life threatening, but they can easily get infected and may leave permanent scars. To lessen the effect of the protein-containing venom, you need to break down the protein. Barry Paull, an allergy specialist with Allergy Associates of Brazos Valley, recommends dabbing the bite with diluted bleach or covering it with a paste of meat tenderizer and water. This method is not effective if more than 15 minutes have passed. Another option is to treat stings with an insect bite remedy containing benzocaine or other ingredients that deaden pain and protect against infection.
   Other controls
   Here are some other helpful tips to control fire ants:
  

Late August through early October is an ideal time to apply fire ant bait to your lawn. At this time ants are still foraging, it's easier to predict weather patterns, and the slow-acting bait can take effect over the winter while you're indoors.
  

Since fire ants travel from yard to yard, team up with your neighbors to implement fire ant control programs at the same time. Decide what control method to use and whether to hire a professional or to treat the neighborhood yourselves.
  

Always remember to be careful and follow label directions. Also, only use insecticides when and where they are needed. Today's baits are gentle on the environment and are best applied using crank-type seeders or spreaders.
   Texas Cooperative Extension can provide more information including the brochure "Managing Red Imported Fire Ants in Urban Areas." Simply contact the Nueces County Extension Office (767-5217) for a copy or additional assistance. You can also check out the fire ant Web at fireant.tamu.edu.
  
  

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Michael Womack is a horticulturist with the Texas Agricultural Extension Service. Got a question? Michael Womack will answer landscape and gardening questions. Call 886-4648, category 3025 to record your question. Write Keep It Green, Corpus Christi Caller-Times, P.O. Box 9136, Corpus Christi, TX 78469 or email wm-womack@tamu.edu

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