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Wednesday, October 10, 2001
Outside the box

Ask food network kitchens
   Q: Perhaps it is because they seem more aristocratic, or that they need to be coaxed into ripeness, but pears have always appealed to me more than any other of the fall fruits. Basically, apples are good, but pears are better. What is it about pears?
   - PEAR FANATIC

Anjou pears

   A: I agree with your opinion, and with more than 3,000 varieties of pears to choose from, you could enjoy yourself for ages! Pears are a luscious fruit, and often overlooked just for the reasons you mentioned. Pears ripen off the tree and from the inside out, and often, the skin color does not change; this makes them seem tricky to purchase.
   However there is a surefire way to determine which pears are good to eat and which should continue to ripen in the fruit basket: A pear is ripe when a light squeeze at the base of the neck, before the bell shaped bottom flares, yields to pressure. Especially hard pears should be put in a paper bag to ripen. After ripening, pears should be refrigerated.
   While comice pears, which have a superior texture and an exceptional taste, is the prized eating pear, other excellent eating pears are Anjou, Bartlett, Bosc, Grand Champion, Honeysweet, Nijisseiki (also called 20th Century), and Seckel.
   Pear juice makes a great sorbet the juiciest pears include Bartlett, Clapp, Comice, Grand Champion, and Zepherine.
   Poached pears, a classic, are best made with firm and slightly underripe pears of these varieties: Bosc, Crimson Blush, Dumont, Forelle, Niitaka, Seckel, Winter Nelis, and Ya Li.
   Good baking pears are Anjou, Black Worcester, Dumont, Hosui, Packham, Shinseiki, Summer Gold, Winter Nelis, and Yoinashi.
   Pears used in tarts, pies, and cakes need to melt but not be overly juicy. Good pears for tarts, pies, and cakes are Anjou, Bosc, Forelle, Grand Champion, Packham, Seckel, Shinko, Shinseiki, Summer Gold, Winter Nellis, and Ya Li.
   Q: I'd love to incorporate onions into dinner as a vegetable or side instead of just as a condiment. Any suggestions?
   - SWEET ONION LOVER

Vidalia onions

   A: Caramelized onions are a great way to elevate onions on the dinner plate. Onions are caramelized when slowly cooked to release their natural sugar. No sugar needs to be added to the onions for them to caramelize. Sweet onions, such as, Vidalia, Maui, Walla Walla, Oso, and Rio are rich in sugar. These onions will caramelize faster due to their high sugar content.
   To caramelize onions, heat a skillet on low heat with about 1 tablespoon of oil or a combination of equal parts oil and butter. Thinly slice onions and add them to the skillet. Stir to coat onions with oil. Stir onions frequently to get uniform caramelization. Watch carefully because the sugar in the onions can burn quickly.
   Slow cooking over low heat is important. This process could take up to 20 minutes, depending on the amount of onions. For the first few minutes, I cover the skillet with a lid to facilitate quicker cooking. Then uncover and continue to cook onions until a deep golden color is attained. They also freeze well.

   Searing meats:
   To get a nice burnished crust on lean roasts like pork loin, rolled turkey breast, or filet of beef, sear the roast in a skillet and then transfer the roast to the oven to finish cooking.
   - Scripps Howard News Service


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