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Tuesday, October 9, 2001
A haircut to fit a lifestyle
Comfortable, natural beauty is New York hairstylist Frederic Fekkai’s focus
By Samantha Critchell
Associated Press

Associated Press

Frederic Fekkai has kept his hand in every aspect of his business, which has grown from just hairstyling to beauty products and books.

NEW YORK — Frederic Fekkai fancies himself a sculptor of sorts.
   In fact, the famous hairstylist did consider becoming an artist before pursuing a career in beauty — a career that has grown into a company that puts Fekkai’s name on day spas, fashion accessories and hair- and skin-care products.
   He also studied law. Maybe that’s where his calm, methodical manner comes from.
   “The first thing I think women and men should do is take the time to ask about ‘What I want to look like?’ Then they need to research and find someone to help them radiate confidence and comfort,” he says. “You have to have inner style, too.”
   If their research leads clients to Fekkai and his chic (and expensive) salons in New York and Los Angeles, they should be prepared for more questions. He’ll ask about their lifestyle, their job and their wardrobe, and then they get the once-over by Fekkai’s critical eye.
   “I attract people who know I’ll go straight to the point and people who want that kind of help.”
   Enhancing natural beauty
   He can be as blunt as the bangs he’ll cut for a woman with a square-shaped face. “I will comment on glasses, jewelry, nails. Big red nails look so fake.”
   Fekkai adds: “No one has ever walked out. And most people end up thanking me.”
   They’re probably thanking him because Fekkai encourages low-maintenance haircuts since he’s more interested in enhancing someone’s natural beauty than creating a new look.
   Fekkai, 44, says he’s aiming to create “cool, current version” of the people we already are. That’s very different from trendy, he explains, which can look silly.
   Now a New Yorker, Fekkai still draws much of his inspiration from his youth. “France is full of beauty, architecture, landscape, culture. I had a beautiful encyclopedia of style to look at with all types of styles.”
   He also looks at beauty from its construction, taking into consideration how the architecture of hairstyle can change the appearance of a face’s shape and how hair color must complement skin tone.
   Being comfortable
   But the most important factor in creating someone’s look is “the beauty of being comfortable.”
   Think twice before using a dark (and very unnatural-looking) lipliner and remember there was only one Marilyn Monroe — and the world isn’t looking for another, he advises. According to his book, “Frederic Fekkai: A Year of Style” (Clarkson Potter), other don’ts are too much foundation, heavy eye makeup, cheap-looking accessories, too much hairspray and overprocessed hair.
   Fekkai looks as if he practices what he preaches. On this day, he looks slightly tanned, his dark hair isn’t weighed down with gel, and his pink button-down shirt and jeans help him look neat and relaxed.
   His resume includes the Jacques Dessange Organization in Paris, and he helped the company open the Bruno Dessange Salon in New York City. In 1989, Fekkai opened a salon in Bergdorf Goodman’s Manhattan store and began to cultivate a celebrity following.
   Controlling growth
   Frederic Fekkai Beaute de Provence, a joint venture with Chanel, opened its first salon in 1996 and a year later the Beverly Hills outpost opened. From these two salons, Fekkai has worked with Claudia Schiffer, Kim Basinger and Renee Zellweger.
   Despite the quick growth of his company, which recently added hair accessories, handbags and eyewear, Fekkai maintains control of all its facets.
   “Too many chefs in the kitchen leads to disaster,” he says.
   The move into accessories seemed natural, he explains, because hair itself is “an accessory.”
   Handbags was a little more of a stretch but they, too, fall into his mission of creating an overall look.
   “A new look can completely change your life. A new look can make you popular — it’s as shallow as that.”
   Are Fekkai-label clothes next?
   “I have a passion for shoes. Maybe I’ll do shoes but I’m not sure about clothes.”

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