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Us
Friday, June 15, 2001
Christian's offers a touch of france
Christian's House Bistro's fine food and elegant atmosphere will cost you
Good news
Christian's House Bistro, located in the Merriman-Bobys House in Heritage Park, serves marvelously creative and scrumptious food in quiet, intimate surroundings. Chef Christian Chavanne isn't trying to draw a crowd. His goal is to make diners relax and savor their food.
Bad news
Christian's hours are limited, and reservations are highly recommended.
Christian's prices will preclude many from visiting this bistro. Dinner for two ran us $79 before the tip.
Food for thought
Christian, originally from the French Riviera, has added recipes from his years in California and at the Four Seasons Hotel in Dallas. He offers a limited menu complemented each night with several appetizer, entrée and dessert specials.
Although many of the items are a bit heavy, Christian plans to lighten things up for the summer, offering dishes inspired by - but not limited to -the Provençal region of France.
We started with an appetizer from the menu - saumon fumé - and one from the specials list - seafood au gratin. The saumon fumé is smoked salmon rubbed in lemon juice and truffle essence served with rye toast, caviar, capers, red onions and sour cream.
The seafood au gratin is comprised of scallops, shrimp, fish and crabmeat mixed in a sauce made from lobster stock, brandy, sherry and mushrooms. The seafood, fresh and without a hint of fishiness, was cooked to a tender consistency.
I decided to try something light for an entrée, choosing the pan-seared mahi-mahi in butter and melon sauce, while my companion opted for the rib-eye steak.
The mahi-mahi, flaky and tender, was covered in a butter sauce made from champagne, cream and whipped butter and topped in a melon sauce containing diced lime, melon, cilantro, red onion, tomato and salt. The two contrasting sauces complemented each other, preventing the dish from being too heavy or too insubstantial.
My companion's medium-well rib eye arrived sliced thinly and covered in a sun-dried tomato sauce. The meat was certainly tender, although I would have preferred it cooked a little longer.
The cabbage gave the vegetables a taste that made this seemingly ordinary dish interesting, and the mashed potatoes were creamy and mild.
For dessert I chose orange crème brulee while my companion decided on the petit pot a la crème. The orange crème brulee is made with orange liquor, orange blossom water and vanilla beans and topped with caramelized sugar.
The orange flavorings added a subdued taste that kept the dessert from becoming overbearingly sweet.
My companion's dessert was made with strong coffee, ground cardamom seeds, chocolate, cocoa and a thick rich custard topped with whipped cream. How did it taste? Imagine a café mocha with custard instead of water.
Service
Our server seemed to be in training the night we visited. She was often accompanied by another waitress.
Together they handled our meal without a flaw, answering our questions and leaving as alone to eat, chat and enjoy Christian's quiet and comfortable - yet elegant - atmosphere.
Restaurant reviews are written by a team of freelance writers. The Caller-Times pays for the meals. From time-to-time the writers visit previously reviewed restaurants to update the information.
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