Restaurant Review

Friday, June 8, 2001

Pinch 'n' peel, flavors to savor

Crawdaddy's stews a great gumbo, steams succulent crawfish    Good news
   Where else will you find a roomful of corporate refugees wearing bibs and decapitating their lunch? If you want casual dining, a great jukebox and authentic gumbo, look no further than Crawdaddy's.
   Bad news
   The selections vary widely in quality, so you'll need to choose carefully. Also consider the level of labor you're willing to invest in your meal. Crawdaddy's slogan is, "Pinch Me, Peel Me, Suck Me," so there's bound to be some shell shucking.

At a glance 414 Starr Street Phone: 883-5432 Entrees: $4.95 to $99.95 Credit cards: yes Checks: if check number is over 1,000 Spirits: Beer and wine Wheelchair access: yes Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m. to 12:30 a.m.; Sun. noon to 11: 30 p.m. Food: 2 stars Service: 1 ½ stars Atmosphere: 2 ½ stars

   Non-smokers beware: The bar-like atmosphere here allows customers to kick back and light up. The dining area is roomy but not big enough to escape the smoke.
   Food for thought
   We immediately liked the casual atmosphere here. Contemporary country and rock jumped from the jukebox. The walls are decorated with crayon drawings by kids and adults who tapped their creativity with the butcher paper-covered tables and crayons supplied by the restaurant. Smoking aside, this is a most kid-friendly establishment.
   We wanted to start with the crabmeat-stuffed jalapenos and gumbo, but were told the jalapenos weren't available that day.
   A bowl of gumbo, however, made up for our disappointment. The thick stew of shrimp, fish and thick tomato chunks mixed with rice made for a spicy, hearty appetizer.
   Unfortunately, our main dishes were something of a letdown. I was thrilled to find a boiled shrimp poorboy on the menu, a healthier alternative to the fried classic. The shrimp was impeccably de-veined, boiled to perfection and served with fresh produce, but the forgettable roll and processed cheese slices made what could have been a great sandwich a decidedly mediocre one.
   My companion ordered the Half Crawdaddy, a platter overflowing with steamed crawfish, corn on the cob and new potatoes, all doused in what seemed to be a cayenne pepper-based spice mix. He gamely waded through critter after critter, repeatedly grumbling, "This is a lot of work for a little tail." The meat was tender and tasty. My companion noted that our neighbor's shrimp and sausage platter looked and smelled great and would be a better choice for the lazier diner.
   Happily, our meal ended as well as it started. Our server had warned us that some customers found the key lime pie "too tangy," but we savored every bit of the palate-cleansing, tart treat.
   Service
   Our server was friendly and attentive. The table is set to serve as well. Mustard squeeze bottles hold butter, giant Tabasco bottles await those needing a little more spice, and a fat roll of paper towels helps fishy-fingered guests mop up their dirty digits.
  
  
  

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Restaurant reviews are written by a team of freelance writers. The Caller-Times pays for the meals. From time-to-time the writers visit previously reviewed restaurants to update the information.

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