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Wednesday, February 7, 2001

Duck for Valentine's dinner sets a romantic scene
Include a vegetable such as endive and round out meal with chocolate
Associated Press

Associated Press

Duck Breat with Onion Turmeric Marmalade is an easily made main course. The recipe is created by chef Rocco DiSpirito of Union Pacific restaurant in New York City.

NEW YORK - Chef Rocco DiSpirito of Manhattan's acclaimed Union Pacific restaurant envisions a Valentine's dinner that is a breeze for the home cook to make, while tapping into the chef's passionate feeling about food.
   "I think duck is the perfect choice to serve for a special meal," DiSpirito said, speaking from the restaurant during a lunchtime lull. "Duck lends itself to the kind of sweet-sour preparations that inspire passion in cooks."
   He likes those recipes so much he does them at the restaurant, he adds, and he recommended one, Duck Breast with Turmeric Marmalade, that he's worked out for the home cook to try.
   "This is great because it's fast to make, and you don't want to spend all night in the kitchen," he says, ever practical.
   Asked for the accompaniments he'd suggest to round out a meal centered on the duck breast, his first thought is for a vegetable: "Endive, mustard greens, or Chinese cabbage, something a little bitter, to balance the flavor of the sweet-sour duck. Put it under the broiler for 5 minutes or so, with a little olive oil and a sprinkling of sugar, until it's a little bit charred. Then, for dessert, something chocolate. A chocolate cake or pudding, something decadent and rich you can make ahead and serve cold. You don't want to be in the kitchen, but you do want to create an ambience."
   The menu is easy to prepare, because you really want to focus on your guest, DiSpirito adds. It's still different enough to make the meal a distinctive occasion. Cooking with a touch of spice, especially, appeals to the chef. "Spices for me are very romantic," he says.

   DUCK BREAST WITH ONION TURMERIC MARMALADE
   4 White Pekin duck breasts, with or without skin
   Salt and pepper to taste
   ½ tablespoon olive oil
   3 sweet onions, sliced
   2 heads garlic, minced
   1 tablespoon powdered turmeric
   ¼ tablespoon powdered fenugreek seed
   ½ teaspoon powdered cumin (preferably toasted) or ajwan seed
   1 teaspoon honey
   2 quarts chicken stock
   Cook the duck breasts, skin side down, in hot nonstick saute pan until fat is rendered and skin is crispy, about 12 to 15 minutes. (If using skinless duck breasts, you may use 1 tablespoon chicken broth to moisten the pan as you add the duck, or you may omit this whole first step.)
   Season duck breasts with salt and pepper. Wrap completely in plastic wrap or seal in plastic bag. Poach in 150 degrees Fahrenheit water (just below simmering), completely submerged, until firm and cooked, about 45 to 60 minutes. Breasts should register 160 degrees Fahrenheit on a meat thermometer, or juice should run clear when tested with a cake tester.
   To make onion turmeric marmalade: Add oil to a medium pan. Add sliced onions and garlic; heat gently until caramelized and tender. Add turmeric, fenugreek seed and cumin or ajwan seed. Cook briefly until spices bloom (become fragrant), barely 1 minute. Add honey; stir to mix. Add chicken stock and bring to a simmer; cook over low heat until reduced by half. Puree by pushing through a potato ricer. The marmalade will be golden color from the turmeric.
   Spoon some onion marmalade on each plate, and arrange slices of duck breast over it.
   Makes 4 servings.



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