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Michael Womack
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Saturday, January 22, 2000

Boiling water kills fire ants

Just don't scald yourself or plants


 

This week, Michael Womack answers some of your gardening questions.
  
  

  • Do you have any advice on how to control fire ants around tomato plants?
       Pouring very hot water or boiling water on a mound is fairly effective, especially at times when ants are close to the mound surface, such as on a cool, sunny morning. Be careful not to scald yourself when using this method, but also avoid direct contact with plants and grass.
       Sometimes it is sufficient to move colonies away. Disturbing or knocking down mounds frequently will cause colonies to move. However, the wives' tale that shoveling one mound on top of another to force ants to kill each other is not true.
       Granular products containing carbaryl (Sevin) plus metaldehyde are registered for ants foraging in the garden, as are products containing diazanon or chlorpyrifos (Dursban). They can be applied before planting and during the growing season, as long as you follow all pre-harvest interval recommendations. Only a few products containing pyrethrins or rotenone are registered for treating fire ant mounds in the garden. Always remember to read the label of a pesticide and to use according to directions.
       Baits such as Amdro or Logic are not labeled for use in the garden. They can be applied around the garden perimeter and will be collected and taken back to the mounds of foraging ants from inside and outside the garden.
       The Texas Agricultural Extension Service has a free brochure, "Managing Red Imported Fire Ants in Urban Areas," that provides more detailed information on biology and identification, medical concerns, history and control efforts for fire ants.
      
      
  • Do you have any recommendations about planting poinsettias outside?
       Assuming you took the plastic off the pots and have kept them watered, you should still have some red bracts remaining and, hopefully, some green leaves as well. However, don't be too worried if all of your green leaves have dropped.
       At this point, your poinsettias probably would benefit from some fresh air. Place them on the patio until you are ready to plant them in the yard, but remember to bring them in, in case of a freeze. Continue to water them and remove any dead leaves and cyathia (yellow centers of the bloom).
       Due to our mild winters, poinsettias can be planted outside, but need to be protected from the north wind. In the event of a freeze, they can be covered temporarily. Also, look for an area with well-drained soil. A slightly raised bed is best. Make sure the soil is rich in organic matter, by adding soil conditioner, compost and/or peat moss.
       Selecting an area that receives full sun on the south side of the house is best. If plants are placed in shade, they will stretch, producing thin, weak stems. In your landscape, don't be surprised if they reach 3-to-5 feet or more, depending on variety.
       Remember that poinsettias are photoperiodic - they flower in response to short days. To ensure blooming the next year, avoid areas that have security or porch lights nearby. Even a short burst of light (2-3 minutes) can prevent or delay flowering.
      
      
  • I have a wild olive tree that produces a lot of small whitish fruits. Are they edible, or can you use them for something? I hate to waste them.
       The white fleshy fruit of the wild olive (Cordia boissieri) is sweet and edible; however, it is not even a close relative of the common edible olive (Olea europea). "Texas Trees: A Friendly Guide," by Paul Cox, states that the fruit can be used to make a jelly that is used as a folk cough remedy. Dizziness may occur if eaten in excess.
       One good rule of thumb is never to eat anything you find in your yard or in the woods. Many plants look very similar to the untrained eye, and even small amounts can cause severe illness and even death. When in doubt, always play it safe.
      
      
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