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Saturday, January 1, 2000

Know when to prune for healthy trees

Apple, peach trees can be pruned in January

  Beware! Reports are in that mild, sunny January afternoons are responsible for an outbreak of Spring Fever, primarily occurring in the pruning fingers of some South Texas gardeners. Don’t let the warm January temperatures lull you into a sense of security. It’s very easy to jump the gun with spring garden chores, especially pruning, when January temperatures rise into the 70s and 80s for several weeks. However, our average date of last freezing temperature in Nueces County is February 15 -- over a month away.
  For those who just have to get outside and cut something, there is hope of satisfying that need to whack it back for spring. The key is knowing what to prune now and what needs to be left alone until the chance of frost is gone.
  What to prune
  Cold, hardy plants can be pruned. Trim overgrown hardy shrubs, trees and vines. Plants like Burford holly, junipers, yaupon holly, ligustrum, and pittosporum can be trimmed. However, don’t prune back tenders or plants like roses, plumbago and lantana, or tropical plants like hibiscus, passion vine or bougainvillea. Pruning can promote growth of young tender shoots that would freeze if temperatures drop below 32 degrees late in the season. These plants should be trimmed after the last frost in late February and early March.
  Also, don’t prune spring flowering shrubs and ornamental trees until after they have flowered. These plants have dormant flower buds that were set at their growing tips. The most common spring flowering shrub in our area is Indian hawthorn. Spring flowering ornamental trees include ornamental (Bradford and Kawakami) pear, redbud and Texas mountain laurel.
  Fruit trees including apple, peach and pear can be pruned in January. Remove suckers, thin tops and cut back to keep low. Promote a spreading canopy in your pruning. Also, pecan trees and grapevines can now be pruned.
  January is also a great time to prune shade trees, both evergreen and deciduous. Deciduous tree branch structure can be seen and tree growth can be directed. When preparing to cut a large limb, always begin by inspecting the tree and determining what needs to be pruned. Never prune just because everyone else is doing it. Only prune for specific reasons. However, palm trees should only be pruned in the summer.
  Clean cuts
  Sucker growth at the base of the tree and water sprouts emerging near the base of large branches should be removed. Also, take out branches with tight crotch angles -- branches that have more upward growth as opposed to wide-angled branches that promote good spreading of the branches. Branches that rub against one another should be thinned out, along with any diseased or dead wood.
  When removing a branch, always prune back to the trunk, taking care not to leave a long stub. However, don’t cut the branch collar. The collar is the swollen area where the branch attaches to the trunk. Removing the collar with the limb will increase the healing time for that branch.
  Always make clean cuts and never leave jagged edges. Make sure your saw or lopping sheers are sharp. Loppers should be used for branches no larger than 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. A pruning saw is needed for medium-size branches and a chainsaw for large branches. Remember that a clean cut heals the quickest. When cutting branches more than 2 inches in diameter, always use the -- three cut -- method to prevent bark tearing and unnecessary damage to the tree.
  First, cut an undercut about 6 inches out from the branch collar. This cut should be no more than one-third of the way through to prevent the branch from cinching and trapping the saw. This step is what will prevent bark tearing.
  Next, make a top cut all the way through the branch 4 to 6 inches beyond the previous cut. This will release the weight of the limb without tearing the bark and allow you to make a clean, final cut. Now make a third and final cut just beyond the branch collar, the natural healing line of the branch.
  Pruning don’ts
  Contrary to popular belief and previous recommendations, don’t use pruning paints and sealers. Recent research has shown that these paints will actually retard branch healing instead of helping to promote quick healing.
  One final note: Never top a tree! Topping is an improper pruning technique that removes large branches and leaves stubs of large branches beyond the trunk of the tree. Many people unknowingly top chinaberry (Texas umbrella) trees, Chinese tallow, crape myrtles and even ash trees in an attempt to promote growth of many, fast growing branches.
  Topping is the worst thing you can do for the health of your tree. It removes too much of the leaf surface that the tree will need to produce food. Also, the large stubs don’t heal properly and are welcome mats for disease and insects. Furthermore, new branches that emerge after topping have weak branch angles, which break more easily in high winds.
  Knowing when to prune what plants will go along way in having a lush yard and healthy trees. Satisfy your -- Spring Fever -- pruning desires by pruning shade trees and fruit trees now, but remember to wait to trim those tropical, tender and spring flowering shrubs.
  For more information on this topic or a month by month pruning schedule, contact the Texas Agricultural Extension Service at 767-5217.

1999 Caller-Times Publishing Company, a Scripps Howard newspaper. All rights reserved.