Restaurant Review

Friday, December 22, 2000

The Torch's filling entrees ignite appetites

Restaurant also offers appetizers ranging from stuffed jalapeños to escargot

At a glance 4425 S. Alameda Street Phone: 992-7491 Entrees: $5.95 to $14.95 Spirits: Full bar Checks: no Hours: Lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Wheelchair access: yes Food: 2 ½ stars Service: 3 stars Atmosphere: 2 stars

When first stepping into The Torch, one gets a sense of the early 1960s from the false beams and subdued lighting from period fixtures. Directly across from the entrance, the lead chef prepares a meal in front of a flaming grill.
   The tables are close together in the non-smoking section, but the atmosphere is comfortable. The wait staff is polite, attentive, not too imposing and their sincerity and unpretentious. Also, the pace at The Torch is relaxed. No one seems to be in a hurry, though the bussers are quick to clear a table once customers have left.
   At the top of the appetizer list are stuffed jalapeños, cooked in corn meal batter and stuffed with crabmeat. They were tasty with just the right amount of heat, but are slippery when trying to consume them with more than one bite. To avoid disaster, is best to east them like a cowboy and pop the entire jalapeño into the mouth. For the more sophisticated diner, the Escargot en Champingnon and Dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) are likely better choices to begin the meal.
   A glance at the wine list revealed a strong variety and the Merlot is perhaps best with the steaks. However, this particular meal was for the less refined. There is a good selection of beer to chase down the jalapeño appetizers.
   The "Lahala House" salads are fresh and crisp. The blue cheese vinaigrette dressing is unique and pleasing. For the more adventurous, the curry mustard dressing is spicy, yet mercifully leaves your sinuses intact.
   The prime rib had a little more fat than desired, but was cooked to perfection at medium rare and affirmed this establishment's reputation for putting out a good steak. The twice-baked potato, with chives, butter and sour cream, was also delicious.
   The pork chops, though slightly overcooked during this sitting, were enjoyable. The sad broccoli, with cheese sauce, apparently suffered in the heat a little too long. The butter rolls were fresh and filling.
   The heavy meal called for a light dessert. The menu reveals the proprietor of the Torch is Telly Gialouris. A man of Greek descent operating the restaurant and baklava on the dessert list made this choice easy. The pastry had the ideal texture of flaky pastry layered over walnuts, brown sugar and nutmeg. This was a delightful end to a good meal as the baklava had a pleasing taste and texture. The sugar used in this creation did not overwhelm the taste buds so the other ingredients could be savored. For those desiring an afterglow from their dessert, there are three ice cream dishes prepared with liqueurs and brandy.
  
  

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